Patch Stuck In Barrel
Failing with the Kriol, mix some STP with Mineral Spirits about 30% STP to 70% MS and let that soak. Steel rod/tip? Hopefully aluminum. Can you unscrew the rod from the tip? If aluminum and unscrewed and soaked, drive it out with a hardwood dowel or aluminum rod you can buy from a hardware store the direction it was going when it stuck.
Going backwards will just make it worse. Pounding on the rod attached to the tip will open up the rod at the threads and make it MUCH worse when the rod is also stuck. Then you'll have no choice but to drive it backwards. Failing with the Kriol, mix some STP with Mineral Spirits about 30% STP to 70% MS and let that soak. Steel rod/tip? Hopefully aluminum.
Can you unscrew the rod from the tip? If aluminum and unscrewed and soaked, drive it out with a hardwood dowel or aluminum rod you can buy from a hardware store the direction it was going when it stuck. Going backwards will just make it worse. Pounding on the rod attached to the tip will open up the rod at the threads and make it MUCH worse when the rod is also stuck. Then you'll have no choice but to drive it backwards.Wouldn't a metal rod be better. Wood would risk splintering and creating a mechanical wedge making the blockage even harder to clear? What is the shape of the jag?
Is it the same diameter for its full length?(the upper two jags the rod end of the jag is a smaller diameter than the patch end. With this type if you can remove the rod it should relieve the bind.The lower jag's diameter is the same through its entire length. The above method may still work but there is a chance it may bind when reversed.I still think my suggestion will work. Unfortunately, no guarantees though. Please do let us know what method you try and the results.Is the patch dry or wet with solvent or oil?
If it's wet you may not be able to burn it out unless you go to a ridiculously high temperature. Any oil will also prevent acids, bleach or other chemicals from breaking down the cotton patch.Good luck! Jag is 2' long aluminum jag on an aluminum rod with slot in end for patch. Kroil and silicone ( pure) did not work. Then set bleach on it for 2 hrs - still no go. Ground small flat on two sides of rod and tried turning it with wrench - promptly twisted soft aluminum rod in half.
Good thing is now there's only 5 ' or so sticking out of the breech end and it's a lot easier to work with without the 3 foot rod sticking out. Thinking about chucking it into the drill press at work and seeing if I can turn it or twist the end out of the jag at least. Will probably break off down in the bore near the juncture of rod and jig. Then I will take thisfoot long 3/16 jobber drill bit and try to drill the core of the rod, maybe when I pull the bit out, the pressure will have alleviated enough to drive the infernal thing out.
Hopefully the aluminum rod hasn't hurt the rifling. 2 pounds per gallon solution of red devil lye (sodium hydroxide) at 200 deg F is the formula for aluminum chemical milling solution. It will eat anything in your bore except the bore. Chromic acid (unavailable) would eat the patch and nothing else. Sulfuric (battery acid) will eat the patch too but will strip oxides also (your phosphate if it gets on it) and won't damage the bore if not left in bore a long time (about an hour should work).
If your worried about the contact of the chemical you choose just embrittlement relieve the barrel assembly at 375 deg for 3 hours after eating the patch out (OK for steel or stainless so remove handguards and front sight first). Have fun and good luck.
And just thinking so maybe it will help someone with an idea.Use a 3/16 (.1875') diameter brass rod inserted from the muzzle, get mean with it and drive it out. The only thing I can see that may happen would be to collapse the slotted jag. However, this shouldn't damage the bore since the jag and rod are aluminum. It would be like slugging the bore with an aluminum slug.
The OP said it's only in about 1.5'. That doesn't seem like much.Any thoughts on this?Hell, I remember driving an unlubricated.264' SP bullet through an Arisaka to slug the barrel because I didn't have a lead bullet. It was tight but it went.:).
Bore Brush Stuck In Barrel
And just thinking so maybe it will help someone with an idea.Use a 3/16 (.1875') diameter brass rod inserted from the muzzle, get mean with it and drive it out. The only thing I can see that may happen would be to collapse the slotted jag. However, this shouldn't damage the bore since the jag and rod are aluminum. It would be like slugging the bore with an aluminum slug.
The OP said it's only in about 1.5'. That doesn't seem like much.Any thoughts on this?Sure sounds viable to me. Worth a shot, anyway. And just thinking so maybe it will help someone with an idea.Use a 3/16 (.1875') diameter brass rod inserted from the muzzle, get mean with it and drive it out. The only thing I can see that may happen would be to collapse the slotted jag.
However, this shouldn't damage the bore since the jag and rod are aluminum. It would be like slugging the bore with an aluminum slug. The OP said it's only in about 1.5'. That doesn't seem like much.Any thoughts on this?I'd try going from muzzle to breach too. He's already hammered it on the floor and drove it in even tighter. Myself, I'd just take the barrel off the upper receiver, clamp the broken rod into a vice, have someone pull on the barrel while tapping the chamber end with a brass hammer to see if it will pull back out, or at least get the rod to come off then try a brass rod from the front as you suggested.
We were just talking about this at the range the other day. There was one consensus, the first mistake people make is to try and drive the stuck jag or patch holder back out of the bore with the rod attached or try and use a rod with no tip attached to drive an obstruction out. If you hammer on the rod with the original tip on it destroys the rod by driving the threads and tip up into the rod often expanding the rod enough that it becomes lodged as well. If you use a rod with no tip attached you simply destroy the threaded end of the rod whether you get the jag out or not.I would try force unthreading the rod from the jag with a pair of ViceGrips. The rod is toast anyway and you need to get that rod out of there.
Jag Stuck In Barrel
Then you could use hydraulic pressure by attaching a grease gun to a strong high pressure rubber hose clamped on the barrel and grease gun and try to pump it out. Grease guns put a lot of pressure to it. Messy but it often works. You might also try high pressure air by clamping a rubber hose to the barrel and to an air hose and let her rip. With either method above you'll have to remove the gas block and clamp something (piece of rubber) over the gas port to plug it. Make sure, in either case, that no one, or nothing you value, is down range when you put pressure to it:eek.Failing all of that a good Gunsmith might be in your future.
If you can successfully unscrew the aluminum rod, you can then screw on a steel rod which you should be able to use to drive it out.I kind of like the 'burn it out' method. That sounds like it would work.That will simply destroy the steel rod he screws on and may make it worse if the steel rod then becomes stuck. The threaded end of the rod, steel or otherwise, is not designed to be used as a driver.
Hammer on a cleaning rod = destruction of the rod if, like in this case, the jag is hard wedged. He is a friend of mine, I sent him a text yesterday, and told him the suspense was killing me. He was flying, and I have not gotten any thing else back.
So I'm pretty sure it's still stuck, we had several text exchange discussing basically all the options that have been posted.His Current plan is to chuck a drill on the remaining 5 inches of rod protruding from the breech, either spin it out or break it at the base of the jag assuming that's the weakest point.Then if required use a long 3/16 drill bit to compromise the integrity of the blockage and push the rest through. I know he applied bleach to attack the patch, so hopefully it spins out with the drill.Greg.
He is a friend of mine, I sent him a text yesterday, and told him the suspense was killing me. He was flying, and I have not gotten any thing else back. So I'm pretty sure it's still stuck, we had several text exchange discussing basically all the options that have been posted.His Current plan is to chuck a drill on the remaining 5 inches of rod protruding from the breech, either spin it out or break it at the base of the jag assuming that's the weakest point.Then if required use a long 3/16 drill bit to compromise the integrity of the blockage and push the rest through. I know he applied bleach to attack the patch, so hopefully it spins out with the drill.GregDon't try a root canal. This is not the time to be an endodontist!:eek:That's the scary part. I see no way to keep the bit centered and off the lands. To me this would be instant destruction.
It's not like you're working in a larger diameter and can make a bushing to keep the bit centered.I think the barrel is still salvageable unless some drastic measure is taken that will damage it. Ok = GOT IT OUT! After heating the barrel in out heat treat oven at work at 600 ' for two hours - I let it cool and still couldn't budge it. I was ready to go for the more drastic solutions when I tried grabbing the 5' of rod left with the vise on my mill table and using a block of UHMW and a hammer - on the second smack - it moved. I then drove the barrel off the rod. Barrel is undamaged - rod and patch jag FUBAR. The slotted end of the patch jag had been driven back on itself but the jag unscrewed from the rod after i drove the barrel off.Thanks guys for the tips - they worked.
I was focused on driving the rod out of the bore - when I should have been trying to drive the bore off the rod! Congrats on getting that sucker out. I believe you got very lucky. FTR I rarely use jags and usually use patch holders and undersized patches especially in small bore rifles. They are by far the easiest to get stuck in. Personally, I'm a 'brusher' and not someone who uses tight patches. I run a loose patch with solvent or Sweets in the bore then brush and use multiple loose patches of solvent to flush out the Sweets, wipe clean and finally oil the bore.
No matter what, if a patch starts to get tight, NEVER try and reverse direction. That's almost guaranteed to get it hard stuck. Better to force it through.
I've come close but, knock on wood, I've never gotten one stuck in 50 years.I wont even bring up how many friends I have that have gotten Bore Snakes stuck or broken off in bores. They are especially bad news in small caliber bores. Congrats on getting that sucker out. I believe you got very lucky. FTR I rarely use jags and usually use patch holders and undersized patches especially in small bore rifles.
They are by far the easiest to get stuck in. Personally, I'm a 'brusher' and not someone who uses tight patches.
I run a loose patch with solvent or Sweets in the bore then brush and use multiple loose patches of solvent to flush out the Sweets, wipe clean and finally oil the bore. No matter what, if a patch starts to get tight, NEVER try and reverse direction. That's almost guaranteed to get it hard stuck. Better to force it through. I've come close but, knock on wood, I've never gotten one stuck in 50 years.I wont even bring up how many friends I have that have gotten Bore Snakes stuck or broken off in bores. They are especially bad news in small caliber bores.+1 Larry.
Glad this baby got born!!!!:D. I like patch draped over the end of long.22 SS brushes for.30 & up, go either way.
On smaller, a slot inserted from muzzle to chamber w/no patch, add patch at chamber & pull through.There are no longer any 'Gunsmiths' listed in the phone book or by word of mouth. I get people here 6-8 times a year wanting a piece of scrap metal put in shooting order. 'Gunsmiths' are a dying breed here, they are all faced w/repairing 75 yr old $10.00 Sear&Rowbuck/Monkey-Ward shotguns, Owl Head & Ivory-Johnston revolvers, dealing w/owners who think a $20.00 will buy them a trip to the moon!!!!PJH. I like patch draped over the end of long.22 SS brushes for.30 & up, go either way. On smaller, a slot inserted from muzzle to chamber w/no patch, add patch at chamber & pull through.There are no longer any 'Gunsmiths' listed in the phone book or by word of mouth. I get people here 6-8 times a years wanting a piece of scrap metal put in shooting order.
'Gunsmiths' are a dying breed here, they are all faced w/repairing 75 yr old $10.00 Sear&Rowbuck/Monkey-Ward shotguns, Owl Head & Ivory-Johnston revolvers, dealing w/owners who think a $20.00 will buy them a trip to the moon!!!!PJHThere are still a few gunsmiths around here, but you're right, there's probably not much future in it. Labor costs need to be so high anymore, the old guns generally aren't worth fixing and the new guns like Glocks are like televisions.
It probably won't need repairing and if it does you get a new one.